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Stunningly Beautiful Civita Di Bognoregio, Italy

2/20/2017

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A Breathtaking Glimpse Into a Medieval City

by Joe Mack
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My previous trip to Italy was planned around visiting Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast. Driving from the airport in Rome to San Donato in Poggio only takes about three hours to drive. We stayed at the Palazzo Malaspina in San Donato in Poggio for our stay in Tuscany.

​You can learn more about the palazzo at 
http://www.palazzomalaspina.it. 

The hostess, Maria Pellizzari, is very knowledgeable about Tuscany and the Chianti Region of Italy. And she makes hearty breakfasts that are included in the cost of the room.
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While in Tuscany, naturally we had to see Pisa, Florence, San Gimignano, and Volterra. All beautiful towns in their own right. From Tuscany the trip goes to Pompeii and then the Amalfi Coast. But that is a 5 ½ drive even on the autostrada where the speed limit is almost nonexistent. And I did not want to drive that many hours in one day.

I knew of this town called Civita Di Bognoregio via Rick Steves, the Travel Guru, who filmed one of the episodes from his travel show here. I did my research and knew this was at about the half way point between where I was and where I was going. 

I did my due diligence and found a hotel to stay in. There really are not many hotels or Bed and Breakfasts in Civita Di Bognoregio. Only two or three at the most. But I settled on Locanda Della Buona Ventura. You can find out more about this gem of an Inn on Trip Advisor (here).
We left early in the morning on Saturday, Easter Eve. Driving on the Autostrada is fine, but then it is necessary to take some secondary roads. The road conditions are ok. And the scenery is wonderful no matter where you drive in Italy. I stopped for lunch at a little family owned ristorante. No one speaks English here, but I do know some Italian so “tutto era buono”, “everything was good.”
Back in the car to let my GPS take me to Civita Di Bognoregio. But that gadget will only get you so far. I am in, what the GPS tells me, is Civita Di Bognoregio, but this is not I expected. Turns out I am in the other Civita, the newer one. And I ask directions in my broken Italian.

​Driving a bit further, I finally see signs for the town. And there is a place to park and get coffee and snacks. As I go around to the front of the building, I spot this jewel. It sits down in a ravine. But looks like a little volcano pointing up to the sky.


I start shooting photos, how can I resist. Then get some coffee, and ask how to get to the parking area. Back in the car, down the hill, and under the bridge. I find the parking meter and put some coins in and hope I have enough time till morning when w​e leave.
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We grab one suitcase, it is all we need for one night, and our umbrella since the weather does not look very promising. We start up the long ramp that leads to the main gate of the town. Half way up the ramp the heavens open. Wind, rain, 40-50 mile per hour gusts. I am holding the umbrella, my wife the suitcase, I hold on to her to help steady her from the wind and rain. The umbrella turns inside out several times. And we are still only three quarters of the way up the ramp. And we are both soaked. ​

We make it to the top and go through the main gate to town. We are met with the sight of a small piazza, a church, and many old buildings. Remember this town originated 2500 years ago, and looks it. I now have to find the gift shop where a girl named Lara will meet me. I find the shop, I find the girl. She welcomes us. 
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She gets the key, and grabs another umbrella, since it is still raining, and we walk across the street to the building that will be home for the night. I found out later that the building had collapsed over the years and was rebuilt using original material from the old structure.

We unpack, and are amazed at the room. Concrete base for the bed, windows overlooking the piazza, a bathroom with stone sinks and shower, and a window that penetrates the wall that has to be at least 12” thick with a piece of glass on the outside edge. The door is obviously original, and the keys are the largest room keys I have ever seen. I tell my wife to make herself comfortable and I head out to shoot some photos.
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"We grab our suitcase...
​it is all we need for the night.
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​​The streets all are dead ends. In any direction you go, you come to a point where it ends and drops off into the ravine. The back yards are the same way. Fences stopping you from tumbling into the abyss. I walk around shooting photo after photo. Amazed at this gem of a town. I do find one restaurant open and it is just across the piazza from our hotel. The place is called Trattoria Antica Forno and I decide this is where dinner will be. 
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I go to the room, get my wife, and tell her of my find. Her clothing is still wet, so basically she wears her pajamas to dinner. We open the door to the restaurant and find they are not open yet, they are still setting up for the night. We ask if we can wait, and they are agreeable. We sit and enjoy the view of this old restaurant, and I notice photos of Rick Steves on the walls of the place. He obviously had dinner here too when he visited this town. We at pasta, what else, some sausage, and drank lots of wine. If you have not been to Italy, the wine is plentiful. By the glass or by the bottle is very inexpensive. And all local. Salute.
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Diner is over and we make our way back to the room. By now it is dark outside. We have a small light in our room. I turn on the light and I decide to use a hair dryer to help dry out my shoes, which by now are soaked. Not long after turning it on, I trip a breaker and all the power is now off. I have to call the owner who begins to give me instructions on where the breaker box is and that I should go and reset the breaker. What a way to start the night. I do find the panel and reset the breaker. I then go back to my room and settle in for the night.
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Next thing I know, church bells are ringing. I remember that the church is just across the piazza and it is Easter Morning. The bells are ringing to signify the resurrection of Christ.  I also notice that the sun is finally out. I then try to use the coffee maker in our room which for some reason, either I can’ figure out or does not work. So I tell my wife, I am going out to shoot more photos in daylight, and I will find us some coffee. Little did I know, finding coffee was not going to be easy. 

After walking the same streets as the night before, I find a shop keeper setting up for the day, and ask if I can get a cup of coffee. He tells me he is not a coffee shop but come back in 10-15 min and he will see what he can do. I walk through town a bit more, taking more photos, and then go back. He is ready to make me coffee and has the girl that works for him brew it for us in her coffee maker. 

I bring the coffee to my wife and then we finish packing. We then begin the long trip down the ramp to the parking lot. At least the sun is shining this time, and the view of the valley is amazing. There are even people out heading up the ramp to go to Sunday services at the church. We find the car, put our bags in, and take one last look at this historical town. This was not a 5 star hotel stay, but I will never forget the experience here in Civita Di Bognoregio.
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There were problems with the room, but that makes for wonderful memories. Now it’s off to Pompeii and then the Amalfi Coast.
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We are amazed at the room with
​windows overlooking the piazza
Joe Mack is a Photographer, Writer, Craftsman, Musician and Engineer Tech. He, and his wife Jaci live in upstate New York and love to travel. 

​Look for more of their adventures here, or on his Facebook pages at:
Joe's Facebook
Vacation Photography

More photos on Viewbug
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NOTE: If you are truly a travel lover... Skyscanner is a great way to find the cheapest trips almost anywhere in the world!  Don't have a destination in mind but want to see whats "out there" for cheap airfare? Just enter the airport you are leaving FROM and leave the destination and dates OPEN. Skyscanner will show you the cheapest flights for the next 3-4 months. We recently flew (2 people) from Orlando to New Orleans for $200 total for both of us. Another tip... compare round trip to simply one way flights each way... we used two airlines and saved the most that way.
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​Grand Case – French St Martin – The Gourmet Capital of the Caribbean

12/20/2016

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​by Joe Mack

​Thinking about the Caribbean Island of St Martin, for me, there is only one side, the French Side. I had heard about St Martin. I knew half of the island was French. I like all things French. I go regularly to Quebec City, Canada, and I have toured the South of France.  Nice, St Tropez, Cannes.  But that’s another story.  HERE I deal with the Caribbean. 

I did research before coming to the island. My wife Jaci and I are “foodies" and I discovered the town of Grand Case is considered the “Gourmet Capital of the Caribbean.” There is a good reason why. Main Street in Grand Case is called Grand Case Blvd. Here you will find some hotels and B&B’s lining the beach side of the street but, the first thing you will notice, are the number of restaurants. They adorn both sides of the street. On the ocean side, you will get the extra benefit of an ocean view while you dine. Anything in Grand Case that is along the beach is RIGHT ON THE BEACH. It is not a walk to the beach, you are right on the beach. In St Martin, as in most Caribbean islands, no beach is private, they belong to everyone.
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​After breakfast it’s off to the beach to enjoy the sun, sand and water. On Sundays, just about every Sunday, there is a Boat Race in Grand Case. The boat race is done by locals. They own and take pride in their boats. They head for to the beach. Get their boats ready, then off they sail to the Island of Anguilla that is just beyond St Martin. You can see it from the beach in Grand Case.  Watching them get ready was more fun than watching them sail.
My first time on the island, I stayed at the Atlantide. This is a small building. Three stories, and three units on each level. Then, they were all hotel units, but over the years they have been purchased privately and get rented out by the owners on Airbnb and web sites like that. This first photo is from our terrace. We had the middle unit on the first floor. Again, when I say we were RIGHT ON THE BEACH, I mean we were RIGHT ON THE BEACH. In Grand Case you don’t pay a fortune for this luxury. We have returned many times. The second is a shot taken from out in the water, what a great place to stay.

You like good food? So do I. Breakfast is simple and NOT so gourmet. But oh so French. Down the street from our room, is a small place. It’s only open for breakfast and lunch. Their menu was simple. And the price was always right. Café au lait, croissant, and French baguettes. 
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​​On my first trip to St Martin, I didn’t know what to expect. And when I found the Atlántide, parked and then started walking, after seeing buildings similar to this one, I didn’t know what to expect. And thought,

​“Maybe this island stuff isn’t for me”.
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​It didn’t take long for me to stop dwelling on these buildings. And they are not the norm. As of this date, places like this are few and far between. Renovations are booming.  And now, at least on the ocean side, it’s hard to find a vacant building. The rest of the town is wonderful. And the people really are friendly as the name implies, The Friendly Island.
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​Grand Case Blvd is narrow. Cars park on both sides. Lucky for you, on most of Grand Case Blvd there is only one way traffic, including the main part. You learn to weave in and out of parked cars as you maneuver down the street. You see people walking, in cars and in their houses. You wave, they wave. You learn the rhythm of the island very fast.
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​The beach is a small one. The water is shallow, warm as you might expect. There is a sandy bottom. Not really much of a surf.  If you want surf, got to Orient Beach.
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​Oh, this was about food wasn’t it? You have your choice. French, Sea Food, Thai, Italian, Creole, Vietnamese, Indian, Japanese, Tapas and, of course, Caribbean.  There is an Island Barbeque type place with traditional island food called “a Lolo”. There is one in Grand Case. 
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​Don’t expect luxury. Plastic forks, plastic knives and paper plates. But the food is delicious and you can’t beat the price. When I was there last, it was New Year’s week.  The Lolo had entertainment, this steel drum band. They were very good and the music went well with the food. Great ambiance

​​On New Year’s Eve that year, we did “the restaurant crawl”. We had a pre-dinner drink in one bar. Then on to a restaurant for an appetizer. We left and picked out another for our entre. We found our last restaurant for desert. We really learned how to ring in the New Year that night in Grand Case.
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​So at the end of the day. What do YOU think of? After desert and drinks I mean. SUNSET right?

Grand Case has the best sunsets. You can sit on the beach to watch the sun set, or you can watch it from your table at your restaurant if you were lucky enough to get one on the beach side of the street. We did.
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​At the end of your stay. Before you pack your bags and head for the airport, you have go to “Tijon Perfumeries & Boutique”. Here you will get a lesson in making perfume. The owner is very knowledgeable about scents, and guides you thru the process of making YOUR own personal scent. You take one of these scents, one of those, one of the other. He mixes it for you. Catalogs it in his data base. YOU give it a name and the formula is saved. If and when you come back, you can have more made, the same fragrance. Or you can contact him thru a web site and re order your own special scent that NO ONE else in the world has but YOU.
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​Did you enjoy this short tour of Grand Case, on the French Side of St Martin? It really is a beautiful little town to stay in. You have so many choices of types of places to stay. A Resort, a B&B, a Hotel, maybe a Condo, you name it.  

One more thing. I forgot to tell you. It’s about our very favorite restaurant, if we eat nowhere else, we eat at “Le Pressoir”. It’s at the end of the street, well beyond the rest of the restaurants and stores. There is a large old Salt Press across the street from the Restaurant, you can’t miss it. It’s worth the walk down the street. Get a table on the porch. It’s not beach side, well away from the water, but on the beach side, but it is still our favorite. If you like Pâté de Foie Gras get the sampler, “c'est très bon.“
If you want to know more about Grand Case, contact me: iwanttogotherephoto@yahoo.com

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I’ll be happy to tell you more, answer questions or even make some suggestions for you for dinner or a place to stay.


Joe Mack is a 
Photographer, Writer, Craftsman, Musician and Engineer Tech. He, and his wife Jaci live in upstate New York and love to travel. Look for more of their adventures here, or on his Facebook pages at:
Joe's Facebook
Vacation Photography

More photos on Viewbug
 
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Nicola Suggests Autumn in Tuscany

11/2/2016

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From "My Travel in Tuscany"

Even though along the coast summer seems to still be here, with some people resting in the sun and swimming in the sea, the fall came a couple of weeks ago. If you are still uncertain of where you should be traveling during this period of the year, choosing to plan the autumn holidays in Tuscany is definitely a good idea.

There are various good reasons to choose Tuscany in autumn, even if only for a short break or a romantic escape. Together with the spring, the fall is probably the best period to visit this land loved for its relaxing atmosphere, peaceful places, culture and history.

6 good reasons to plan your Autumn Holidays in Tuscany...
​
Mild weather

In October, the weather is still mild with warm and sunny days where you only need shorts and flip-flops to walk around. In November a bit of rain should fall, but it won’t stop your will to travel. Depending on the forecasts, you can choose to explore areas with less chance of rain, as Maremma or Crete Senesi. For an overview of the climate of the region read also our post about the weather in Tuscany.

Cheaper rates

Flights, hotel rates and the cost for a room or apartment are cheaper. Taking advantage of some packages and deals, you will be able to organize your autumn holidays in Tuscany without spending a fortune, a big savings compared to the high season.

Nature

Autumn is the period of the fall foliage, and the forests of Tuscany are every bit as good as the ones in New England in the United States or in Japan. The colour of leaves turns to different shades of yellow, orange, red and brown, giving the forests a special, magic and relaxing atmosphere where the only sound you can hear is the creaking of the dry foliage under your feet. I am sure your “perfect place” is somewhere out there, between the Mugello and the Casentino areas, up to the mountains of Abetone or Monte Amiata, into the chestnut tree forests of Castagneto Carducci in the Etruscan Coast or of Lunigiana.

No crowd

Being out of the peak season you can enjoy both the art cities (Florence, Pisa, Siena and Lucca) and the main villages (San Gimignano, Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano) without the crowds you find during the summer.

You can even get out the cities and the more "touristy" spots and head for the Tuscan Riviera. It offers you wide empty sandy beaches to walk, medieval villages overlooking the sea to explore as Populonia in the Gulf of Baratti (where you can even visit the interesting archaeological park of Baratti and Populonia) or Porto Ercole and Porto Santo Stefano in the Argentario Promontory.
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FRUITS AND VEGETABLES OF THE AUTUMN – TRUFFLE PHOTO CREDITS: MICHELA SIMONCINI
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Taste the fruits of the season

The indisputable ruler of the autumn holidays in Tuscany is the food. Fall is the season of truffles, mushrooms, chestnuts, olive oil, and wine. The Sagre, the traditional festivals where you can taste the fruits of our land and the exquisite recipes made with them, spring up throughout the region.

The villages of San Miniato (in the province of Pisa) and of San Giovanni d’Asso (near Siena) celebrate the white truffle every November with festivals and trade fairs. But, the best places to pick and taste chestnuts are in the areas of Mugello, Garfagnana, Casentino, Lunigiana, and Monte Amiata. In the past, chestnut was one of the main ingredients of the kitchen, especially during periods of famine. Thanks to our grandparents, who passed down to us recipes of delicious dishes made with chestnuts, we still keep alive their memories and their traditions. Do not miss tasting roasted chestnuts or traditional food made with chestnut flour as Castagnaccio (try to make it following the recipe of my Grandma), crepes (called Necci) with ricotta cheese, or the Torta di Marroni of Mugello.

November is also the time of olive oil harvest and the time to celebrate the “Vino Novello”, the first wine produced with the fruits of the grape harvest of September.

Wellness
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Finally, I add another suggestion to the list of reasons why you should plan an autumn holiday in Tuscany: wellness and hot springs. In case of bad weather or chilly temperature you can even think to pamper yourself with a plunge into one of the hot springs of the region. Here is our blog post where put together all the free hot springs of Tuscany.

Do you still need reasons to convince you to spend your autumn holidays in Tuscany? Let me know If you need any other information or suggestions... just send me a story idea anytime through Facebook!
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Nicola Bandini

Nicola lives and breathes the travel life. From Cecina, a small coastal town in the centre of Tuscany, along the Etruscan Coast, Nicola works for luxury hotels and, when he's not working, he travels himself.

Nicola spent most of his years in Cecina, on the Tyrrhenian coast, surrounded by the sea, the wine region of Bolgheri and beautiful hills with many little hamlets. As a child there was little opportunity to travel a lot, except for weekends and holidays spent at the families country house in the chestnut wood of the tiny village of Sassetta.

Once gown, Nicola started to travel with friends, or by himself, and he fell in love with travel; discovering new cultures, new ways of life and meeting new people from all over the world. 

Read more from Nicola at:
http://mytravelintuscany.com
​Click to follow Nicola

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Historic August Seven Inn

8/29/2016

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Good "Medicine" for the Soul
​Daytona Beach, Florida

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The August Seven Inn was originally a guest house built in 1896 by James N. Gamble of the famed Proctor and Gamble Company and is listed on the National Historic Register.
​What IS a "stress onion," and what can you do about it?

I've found the answer. Though, to be honest, I wasn't expecting much when we booked our room at the August 7 Inn in Daytona Beach, Florida. Sure, we looked at all the pictures on the website and even commented on the beautiful decor, but I was still skeptical all the same. 

There had been too many B&B's that we have visited in the past where their website looked top notch and elegant, taken before the place was opened and was fresh and new. But upon arriving we found them to be run down, smelly, even unkempt. Truly as if we were visiting an elderly relative.

Not so at the August 7 Inn...

Upon our arrival we were greeted by the Innkeeper and Owner, Joe. ("Hi, I'm Joe. Welcome, please come in...") His demeanor was welcoming and quietly comforting, like we were old friends. I liked him immediately. One layer of the stress onion peeled off and I began to look around.

Inside the house it is serene and beautiful. And tastefully decorated. Joe showed us about the first floor explaining about each room. The massage chair room, (no, no, too tense for that yet...more on that later) the elegant Victorian inspired living room, which led into the dining room, then the wonderful outdoor wrap around porch. 

An array of treats awaited us in the kitchenette, including coffee, tea, sodas, popcorn, water, even an entire bookshelf of DVD's to choose from were available 24/7. ("Help yourself to drinks at your leisure, two for a dollar. We operate on an honor system, so just drop the money in the honor box, which is hanging on the wall".)   Wow, he trusts us.
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Each room was sparkling clean and looked as if they were never sat in or used. But Joe assured us that we were welcome to enjoy and relax wherever we wanted, whenever we wanted. (Not at all the controlling, stuffy innkeeper who forbids you to touch this or sit there.) "It's just stuff, you are welcome here, please make yourself at home." Another layer of the "stress onion" peeled off, and magically a little more stress evaporated into thin air.

Joe graciously answered all of our questions and gave a brief overview of the "story of the Inn." It's quite a story, you'll have to ask Joe to tell you sometime.

By the time we were heading upstairs to visit our room, my husband and I were beginning to relax, feeling as if we were going to enjoy this place. "Oh, by the way, can I get you a complimentary bottle of wine?" Joe asked. 

Oh yes, we are definitely going to enjoy this place.

Our room, the 1022, was exotic and comfortably roomy. It was elegantly decorated in a safari theme, not at all tacky and sparkling clean. (I have to admit, I looked under the bed and behind the furniture for dust, and there was none.) Dark woods, elegant fabrics and soft fluffy pillows made this room perfect for relaxing and spending quality conversation time with the one I love. Ahh, and the jacuzzi tub...Perfect!  The mood of the room lifted our spirits another notch. Another layer of the stress onion gone... (In fact, I was so inspired by the theme of the room, that upon returning home, I redecorated our own bedroom in a similar fashion).

In the evening, Joe puts out a buffet of snacks and candies for his guest to enjoy. Soft music is playing. The lights are dim and romantic. It was a perfect April evening, just cool enough to sit comfortably on the veranda and sip a glass of wine and nibble on Joe's homemade treats. Our favorite spot was the corner overlooking the lawn watching the world go by...

What, are there any layers left to peel away? No, I think we have reached the core...
No work, No Kids, No pets, No obligations, No stress...
"Really?" I ask myself, "No Stress? Check again."
I look over at my husband who is smiling and say to myself, "Yup, it's gone."

Breakfast on the veranda is a wonderful experience. Joe puts out a spread you wouldn't believe. With 5 different types of pancakes, fresh fruit, fruit and nut breads, cereal, juice, not to mention bacon, waffles, and pastries. He goes all out to make sure his guests are satisfied.

​Before embarking on our day of exploration we treated ourselves to a visit in the massage chairs. Ahh, what a magical experience. The room is a relaxing garden theme, the chairs are state of the art "Human Touch" massage chairs which are remote controlled to massage every muscle in your body exactly the way you want it. The experience was heavenly and left me rejuvenated and ready to take on the day.


Two days later, I began to feel that feeling you get when it's time to go home. "Can't we stay?" We ask Joe. "Of course," Joe says.
"We'll put you on speed dial." we say.
"Yes, certainly, come any time." Joe says.
"But I don't want to go." I say to my husband.
"I know, me either."

Now, one month later...What is that feeling in my stomach? There is a tightness, an unwelcome feeling that I don't like. Something that has been building up for a few weeks...Ahh, yes. It's Stress...

Time to go visit The August 7 Inn again. You can too. Just visit their website to make reservations:

August Seven Inn, Daytona Beach, Florida: http://a7inn.com
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The Hendrickson Family
Dawn Hendrickson
TropicalMusicInternational.com

Dawn and Steve Hendrickson are busy talent agents and the owners of Tropical Music International.  

The Hendricksons live in Orlando and supply entertainment and talent all across world, as well as being wholesale distributors for Jimmy Buffett, Bob Marley, Kenny Chesney and the finest Hawaiian Artists and Steel Drum Bands.

Clients include the Ritz Carlton, Sirius Radio, the PGA, Carnival Cruise Lines, the Orlando Magic, Miami Dolphins, City Walk, and the Islands of St. Lucia, Grenada, Caymans, and the British Virgin Isles.
​

Learn more at: http://TropicalMusicInternational.com
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